Wednesday, October 30, 2013

Ephesus

Mary's house


On wedneday October 23rd I had a day tour to Ephesus.  The tour didn’t start until 9am, so I enjoyed a café latte at one of the local restaurants in central Kusadasi, before being picked up.  We went to 3 areas on the tour – the Virgin Mary’s house and final resting place, the ruins of Ephesus and the ruins of the Temple of Artemis (Greek Goddess of Hunting).  The Temple of Artemis was one of the Ancient Wonders of the World (of which only the Pyramids of Giza in Egypt are left standing to this day).  Ephesus was the city where Paul the Apostle preached to the Ephesians, and wrote his letter to the Ephesians in the new testament of the Bible.  The modern city of Selcuk is located quite near Ephesus, where we picked up our guide for the tour.  At the time Ephesus was inhabited, it was located by sea, but due to erosion and earthquakes among other things, it is now located 12km from the shore.  The tour group was very small – just myself and family from Pakistan and our guide Guray.  Our driver was Ismai. 
  The Virgin Mary’s house was a stone structure located up in the hills above Ephesus.  There is a natural spring there, and a large pool that may have been used for Baptizing.  It was very peaceful.
 


 The ruins of Ephesus took over 2 hours to walk through and explore.  Some of the major structures still intact included:  Large gates, Roman Baths, The Library, the Town Hall, Terrace houses (where the rich lived) and a massive Amphitheatre.  They have only uncovered 20% of the area so far.  The façade of the library was beautiful – large columns, and carved statues.  It reminded me of Petra – with the intricate carvings and grand nature of the buildings.  The Amphitheatre was overwhelming – this is where St. Paul preached to the Ephesians.  Over the coarse of history with earthquakes, wars and other events – the city of Ephesus moved – in total to 3 locations.  The site we explored was the 3rd location.  Some of the carvings were very detailed – 2 Greek Gods were seen – Hermes the Messenger and Nikea – Goddess of Athletics.  The floors were made of marble in many areas and there were detailed mosaic patterns on the floors of the Terrace Houses.  A truly magnificent sight. 
Roman bath house
Roman columns at Ephesus
Town Hall - Ephesus










































Main street in Ephesus

The Library of Celsus










































































Ephesus















Hermes the Messenger God

Nikea - Goddess of Athletics




Restoration work - marble mosaic floors

Facade of the Library of Celsus



Entrance to the Agora

Our guide Guray

Amphitheatre where St. Paul preached to the Ephesians

View from the top of the Amphitheatre


The last standing pillar at the Temple of Artemis

















Little remains of the Temple of Artemis – only one stone column of the 127 stone columns in the original structure is there.  There are some stones there, but really you must imagine what it had been like in its heyday.  




How many turtles do you see?


We got to see some of the local reptiles in the area - pretty cool. 













Monday, October 28, 2013

Walking around Kusadasi

Kusadasi waterfront


I arrived in Kusadasi on Monday evening – Oct. 21 – the apartment that I booked was actually 20 min. away from downtown Kusadasi.  There was a small store nearby and the beach was a 2 min. walk away.  Beautiful beach with palm trees and soft sand.  There are many minibuses called dolmus that go between the area and downtown Kusadasi – from 0700 until 2300 hrs.  I spent a couple days this week, exploring the city, in between my day tours to Ephesus and Pamukkale and hanging out at the local beach. 



The Bazaar
 The markets are filled with scarves, rugs, pillow coverings, t-shirts, leather jackets, handbags, and trinkets.  I found some beautiful scarves – 70% cashmere + 30% silk.  In an attempt to find fabric for a friend who quilts, I met some local shop owners who were very helpful.  After I got the message across of what I was looking for, they unfortunately didn’t have any in their shops, I was given information and directions on what area of Istanbul to look in for the fabric and where to find a good deal (rather than the more expensive prices in the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul).  The locals that I met were kind, helpful and understanding, a very different experience to the markets/bazaars that I went through in Egypt 3 years ago.   I found it so much more enjoyable shopping in Kusadasi, because the owners were not pushy at all.    


 near Ladies Beach


  I ventured to the “Ladies Beach” which was about 15 min. away on another Dolmus – not sure where it got its name.  Beautiful beach where people were suntanning, swimming and sitting in cafes on the boardwalk.  I discovered unfortunately after looking around and talking to some people that snorkelling was finished for the season and there was no more boats going out for diving or snorkelling in the area. 



Kusadasi is a port city – where cruise ships dock daily – which is about 20 km from Ephesus.  The people are very friendly.  On Tuesday and Saturday this week I ventured through the city.    The waterfront is filled with people.  Saw fishermen, people walking, people swimming, some men snorkelling and spear fishing.  There was a castle on a peninsula that I wanted to explore, but the gates were closed up when I got there on Saturday morning.  The food is quite enjoyable – I bought food at the markets and stores for my breakfast and dinner and would eat a big lunch in one of the local restaurants.  I tasted Sea Bream – a type of local fish, that is caught daily from the Aegean sea.  Was delicious – pan fried - Also had some great Chicken donair kebab.  All meals were served with fresh baked bread with 2 dips – one was like a tzatziki – creamy white dip with greens in it, and the other fresh cut up tomatoes with herbs.  Very yummy.  I tried apple tea for the first time – and really enjoyed it.  I had a try at the Turkish coffee and not surprisingly, I didn’t like it.  My first time even smelling Turkish coffee was in Yugoslavia in 1988, and I didn’t like the smell of it then.  I also discovered I didn’t enjoy the regular Turkish tea either. 


Downtown Kusadasi

Many pretzel stands lined the streets all over Turkey



Kervansaray Hotel


On Saturday while walking around – I passed by the local municipality office, which had a band playing.  There was a poster up that stated there was a festival on this weekend – which had sister cities across Europe celebrating as well.  The brass band was very good and there were also girls and boys dressed in traditional costumes that performed some dances later on. 

the local beach where I stayed



On Thursday and Sunday this week – I spent time at the local beach.  The days were long and sunny and I enjoyed relaxing and reading my book.  The water was actually cool at first, but then I got used to the temperature and enjoyed swimming in the waves.  Some locals sit by the sea all day – and provide chairs and umbrellas to the tourists if they so desire – along with cold or hot drinks for a price.  There were very few people around – maybe 5 people on the beach on the days I was there.  I was able to see some beautiful sunsets as well.  The coastline is gorgeous.  A great vacation spot. 



The neighborhood where the apartment was located


The apartment on the bottom left


Beautiful flowers on the front porch


Sunset on the Mediterranean





Castle that I didn't get to see inside







Kalikadesi
 On Sunday while walking around the neighborhood, I discovered an excavation site that is still being uncovered.  It was fenced off, but it did have a board with information about it.  While I was reading, one of the locals asked if I wanted to go into the site, which of course I did.  No photos allowed inside.  There were very large pottery jars, mosaics on the floors, and marble stones.  They were uncovering what was a church and there was a baptismal font there as well.  Pretty cool find, it was maybe 5 min. walk from where I was staying.  Upon returning to the apartment and sorting through my stuff to pack up for the flight the next day, I discovered a writeup of the site on the back of the map of Kusadasi.  The site is called Kalikadesi.  I will have to do more reading about it.  In the description it says it dates back to about 3000 BC – and the area was known as Anaia.